Kurt Diemberger, a celebrated Austrian mountaineer, photographer, film director, and writer, entered this world on March 16, 1932, in the picturesque town of Villach, situated in the beautiful region of Carinthia. This extraordinary individual is distinguished by the remarkable feat of having accomplished a first ascent on not one, but two mountains surpassing the imposing height of eight thousand meters, a remarkable achievement shared by only one other mountaineer, the illustrious Hermann Buhl.
Diemberger's remarkable mountaineering career commenced in the year 1957, marking the beginning of a long and illustrious journey that would take him to the highest and most challenging peaks around the world. This year of significance saw Diemberger join forces with a talented Austro-German team, led by the experienced Marcus Schmuck, and including the legendary Hermann Buhl, to conquer the formidable Broad Peak. This pioneering ascent, which required unwavering teamwork, unrelenting determination, and a deep understanding of the mountain, was a testament to Diemberger's growing reputation as a skilled and daring mountaineer.
The same year, Diemberger and Buhl embarked on an ambitious expedition to scale the towering Chogolisa, a mountain that stands at an impressive 7,665 meters above sea level. However, their ascent was cut short due to a severe storm that struck at an altitude of 7,300 meters, forcing them to abandon their climb and regroup for future attempts. Despite this setback, Diemberger's experience on Broad Peak and Chogolisa laid the foundation for a lifetime of adventure and exploration, as he continued to push the boundaries of human achievement in the world of mountaineering.
Tragedy unfolded in a heart-wrenching sequence of events, as the once-promising descent took a catastrophic turn, resulting in the untimely demise of Buhl, whose life was tragically cut short when a fragile cornice suddenly and catastrophically gave way beneath him at an altitude of 7,200 meters, leaving behind a trail of devastation and despair.
Diemberger, the last person to lay eyes on his fallen teammate, was left to grapple with the overwhelming emotions of grief and loss, struggling to come to terms with the senseless tragedy that had befallen them, and to process the magnitude of their loss.
In the year 1960, Diemberger successfully bounced back from a previous setback by spearheading the first ever ascent of Dhaulagiri, a monumental achievement, as part of a prestigious Swiss expedition, where he uniquely stood out as the sole Austrian member.
Fast forward to a remarkable twenty-six years later, Diemberger once again found himself confronted with a life-threatening predicament during an expedition to K2, a notoriously challenging and formidable mountain, notorious for its unforgiving terrain and unpredictable weather conditions.
It was on August 10, 1986, six days after the team had triumphantly reached the summit, that a devastating snowstorm struck the ill-fated expedition, leaving Diemberger as one of only two survivors, a testament to his unwavering determination and unrelenting spirit.
Diemberger's unwavering passion for mountaineering, despite the numerous challenges he faced, continued to make a significant impact on the mountaineering community.
In Xinjiang, China, he meticulously planned and led high-altitude expeditions, pushing the boundaries of human endurance.
In addition to his climbing endeavors, Diemberger collaborated with his daughter on film projects, showcasing his creative and artistic side.
The mountaineering world took notice of Diemberger's outstanding achievements and dedication, and he was honored with two prestigious awards: the Piolet d'or career award in 2013, and the Walter Bonatti Prize.
